Chengdu: 13-18 Sep 2013

Pete says:

Our first night in Chengdu was unexpectedly eventful.

We had intended to catch up on some sleep, but on arrival the reception people told us they were having a dumpling making party that evening, so we joined that. We got talking to Robert from Taiwan who lives in USA spent a lot of time telling me how evil Mao was and how
Chinese people have forgotten how to cook - "I hope noone here speak English or I in big trouble tomorrow. Might be taken away!". He was quite dramatic and apparently a great admirer of British drinking culture. We got on well with Matt from Canada and after the dumplings and quite a few beers, decided we needed more food so popped out to find some nearby snack place. We ended up walking for ages and through a lively nightlife area which is based on a famous street in Hong Kong. We found a hotpot restaurant and, possibly due to the drink, ordered frog hotpot and chicken. Frog is surprisingly nice, but finding hands and heads was a bit off-putting. Sichuan hotpots are punishingly hot so we must have downed many more beers to cope with the heat.

By now we were quite drunk and things started to escalate, as they do. We strolled into what was the most upmarket looking nightclub I think I have ever seen. Remember we had only 'popped out', so I was wearing a sweaty t-shirt, shorts covered in flour from the dumpling making and flipflops. We walked past the counter and queue without paying and a bloke put his arm out in my way (assume the bouncer) but strangely I just gave him a nod and in we went! Not quite sure how that worked. From then things are hazy. I remember us dancing on the stage, alone, while locals looked on and then some very gay locals joining us at some point. The next day we both had a vague memory of sitting with a large group of trendy looking people, with them constantly bringing us plates of food. I also remember the bar being empty and the bar man having to go out the back to get beer everytime we ordered - as though it was unexpected and the bar was just for display purposes. I don't think the Chinese really go out drinking like we do. Later on I savagely cut my foot on a bit of broken pipe on the roof of our hostel (not sure why I was up there, but there is photo evidence) and woke up with a ruinous hangover. Good night though. I wonder if Matt made his 7am bus in the morning for the 10 hour ride to Jiuzhaigou?

In Tianfu Square

We went for a walk to Renmin (People's) Park, which seemed a bit boring and mosquito filled, so turned to leave. Then a young man in white silk pyjamas strolled past in the opposite direction. He was carrying a sword. As you might expect we followed him. He went to a little temple, put down his sword and started practising martial arts to music he played on a little radio.

Despite being a huge city it felt very safe, more so than many British cities. Public spaces normally have a large number of cops and some of them don't look too friendly but they seem to be there just to show the people they exist. They walk around quiet parks in huge numbers yet are never visible in proper residential areas. I started to suspect the Chinese government doesn't really have the resources to police its people so puts on a show more than organising anything practical. Also, most of them appear to be very young and small so not that scary. Police drive around with their red and blue lights flashing all the time so I don't know what they do when they actually want to get to an emergency. They often drive golf buggies for some reason.

After a few days the pollution really got to me. We couldn't see the sun on some days even when it was clear and buildings not too far away would be behind smog. In Hong Kong there were signs warning when pollution got to 30-50 particles per whatever, described as medium to high, but one day in Chengdu it was 271! It made me glad to leave.

Rach says:

We visited the Panda Breeding Centre in Chengdu (main reason I wanted to go there!). Rolling out of bed at 6.30am (yawn), we were greeted by torrential rain - would the pandas all be hiding? Our pink and blue brollies were put to good use as we trudged about the park (it's huge) not seeing many pandas and I started to get disappointed and thoroughly soaked. Luckily, in the later enclosures, they were all out and about and climbing trees and they are gorgeous!!!!!! They are really quite beautiful striking animals with their unusual markings. They have kind faces and the way they run in a haphazard ambling fashion is hilarious! I could have watched them all day. We even saw tiny baby pandas in cots, born in the last month, and they were lovely little bundles of fluff. They currently have about 100 pandas in the park including some red pandas, which they work to introduce to the wild. They look to be well looked after, unlike other animals we have seen in China.

Interesting facts about the Giant Panda:

• They spend 16 out of every 24 hours finding food.
• They don't hibernate in winter.
• Their black & white markings are camouflage for snow.
• They have evolved from being carnivores to eating bamboo even though they cannot digest it properly (why??)
• In 2003, there were 1,590 giant pandas in the wild. Another survey will be completed later this year.

Other animals we have seen have not been treated so well. We have seen people in the street selling dogs in cages, a cat in a bag, we have seen a monkey on a chain being dragged down a street - the man didn't even let it walk properly. We have even seen a cat chained by its collar in the doorway of a house. Why would anyone chain a cat??!

That evening, we went to the Sichuan Opera.  Lots of dancing, flying about on ribbons, elaborate Chinese costumes and sets, fire-breathing and face-changing.  Was fun.

We were so pleased after being in cities for 3 weeks to be heading into the countryside for the rest of our China trip, as the pollution of Chinese cities gets a bit much after a while. Beijing was not too bad when we were there, but the air in Xian and Chengdu was filthy...there is a constant haze and toxic smells everywhere. Going on the subway is tantamount to gassing yourself!

Our hostel - the Chengdu Flipflop Lounge - was excellent. Large, modern and airy bar, with a pool table, table football, sofas, floor cushions and walls adorned with 'people' travel photos. Lots of people just hanging out and some great music playing.

Red panda

Jin Li

Haze

 Leshan Big Buddha