Fenghuang: 25-27 Sep 2013

Rach says:

Due to the continuing hammering rain and the fact my cold was worsening, we were soooo pleased to discover that our room in Fenghuang was the height of luxury! Massive comfy bed, balcony overlooking the river with its wooden boats, traditional old houses and pagoda, and huge open plan bathroom with an inviting looking wooden bathtub! That was it, I was in! Amazing how good a hot bath can be when you've been travelling, are ill and just come in from the
sodden weather, soaked to the bone.

The next day, the river level was so high that some bridges were entirely underwater or had been partially washed away. People were still crossing bridges with no barriers, wading through the rushing water! Restaurants along the river front were cut off entirely. We were surprised to see here (as we had been in Wulingyuan) women washing clothes in the river. They did not strike us as the kind of places where people would not have access to running water and the river was definitely not clean. We also saw cormorants on the river, tied to bamboo rafts. They are used in China for fishing, their necks tied so that they can only swallow small fish and return the big fish to the fishermen.

Cormorants

The old centre of Fenghuang is very picturesque. A long wall with battlements along one part of the river, which is spanned by old bridges and lined with rickety old wooden stilted buildings - all with rows of washing hanging out the back. Men in traditional Chinese hats out on boats added to the perfect scene. Away from the river, little alleyways of old buildings are bursting with bars, restaurants and shops selling Miao minority crafts. I bought a gorgeous shawl/scarf for £1! There is lots of delicious street food - dumplings, noodles, spicy potatoes, rice cakes, fish and crab on sticks. We were surprised how the beautiful old town came alive at night with thumping music and some serious disco lights! Every other place was a bar or nightclub.

Shockingly, there was overt anti-Japanese racism in Fenghuang. One restaurant had a sign up which read "Japanese and dogs no nearing" and we also spotted a pig's head hanging in front of a restaurant wearing a Japanese bandana.

Fenghuang alleyways

It could not have been more perfect 'old China'

Overflowing river

Washing clothes in the river

That's some name for a restaurant!

View from our balcony at night (above and below)

Interesting shop

Street snacks