Luang Prabang: 14-18 Dec 2013

With Evelien & Marije at the top of Mount Phou Si

Rach says:

When the rip-off tuk-tuk dropped us off at Muonglao Guesthouse, we found that the place was filthy. Actual LUMPS of dust carpeted the floor and surfaces, there were (mouse?) holes in the walls, insects on the bedsheets and the blackest mouldiest bathroom I have ever seen. It was already so late, we decided we'd have to stay the night - there is a midnight curfew here and places start shutting down at 11.30pm.

When morning came, we considered that - rather than have the hassle of moving - we could put up with it for just another 3 nights BUT that we would ask for discount because the room had been "missold" (there was no TV or balcony) and we would also ask for the rooms to be cleaned. Marije and Evelien went to investigate.

"Get out in 10 minutes!" came the stunning response from the hotel manager. Unexpected indeed.

Booking.com then forwarded Marije's complaint directly to Muonglao, who swiftly returned a deluge of abuse: "I hate people like you...rude and stupid people should not be in my beautiful and peaceful country". So that was that. We turned out into the freezing cold and heavy rain, trudging through the streets like a little line of snails with our backpacks and ponchos.

Refugees trying to keep warm at Utopia

We were homeless refugees in Utopia bar when we luckily bumped into a Dutch man we'd met on our slow boat. He recommended we stay at his hotel and this turned out to be an excellent choice - it was nicer, cleaner and cheaper! The only downside was the single blanket on our bed considering the freakishly cold conditions, so we had to pile it up with towels and sleep in our clothes to stay warm. In the evening, we sat huddled around a fire at a bar - who'd have thought it in South East Asia?!

"That coconut is as big as your
head" - Evelien's favourite drink

The following day was spent relaxing around town, but I was frustrated to be sitting about not really 'seeing' anything of the area when we had so little time...so I made a full plan of activities for our last day..!

Around Luang Prabang town (above and below)

The Night Market

We got up early to blue skies (woop woop!) and made our way to Mount Phou Si, for amazing views over Luang Prabang and the surrounding countryside. It all looked so green! Back at ground level, Pete and I walked up to Wat Xieng Thong (Golden City Temple) whilst Marije and Evelien got the lunch order in. The afternoon was then spent visiting the impressive Kuang Si Falls and a sanctuary for bears rescued from cruel Chinese medicine practices including painful bile extraction.

Views from the top of Mount Phou Si

Lao PDR flag (left) and Communist flag

Wat Xieng Thong (Golden City Temple)

Pete at Wat Xieng Thong

Wat Xieng Thong

Getting eyed-up by a bear

Hello!

Food is hidden around the enclosure to encourage the
bears to forage naturally and keep them mentally stimulated.

Blending in with the bears...Grrrr!

The beautiful Kuang Si Falls

At Kuang Si Falls (above and below)

Barbequed delights

"Please don't do this. Protect our culture."

We decided against getting up at dawn to see the monks at the Tak Bat, the daily alms-giving ceremony, after hearing what a tourist-travesty it has become. We even heard of people taking 'selfies' with the monks - unbelievable! Because it is such a big draw for tourism, the local government has told the monks that they must continue the traditional public ceremony, despite suffering harassment and even food poisoning from rice sold to tourists by unscrupulous traders - and if they do not continue the locals will step in and pose as monks!

From our short time in the country, it's obvious to see that tourism has not had a positive impact here. Until a government crack-down in 2012, the once sleepy and conservative Vang Vieng (next stop on the tourist trail) had transformed into one massive party, where floating from bar to bar down the Nam Song river in giant inner tubes resulted in the deaths of at least 30 backpackers from drowning or flinging themselves into the river from slides and zip wires. Our experience in Laos so far just felt negative and fake. The locals - justifiably - seem to resent tourists for their behaviour and the country itself has not been resilient - tourism has trampled all over it. 

The next day, we said our goodbyes to our travel partners Marije & Evelien and set off to catch our flight to Bangkok and onwards to Koh Samui.

It's dangerous being a vegetarian in Laos

Evelien trying to learn Pete's cocktail sticks trick!

First time on a propeller plane!